Whiskies

Whiskey is distilled from grain and aged in wood. The most complex of all is scotch whisky (spelt without an "e", as is the Canadian version while Irish and bourbon versions are usually spelled "whiskey"). Single malt comes from one distillery and is made only from malted barley and water. There are many factors affecting taste: peat lends a distinctive smoky flavour, the well or spring water can add minerally elements and the Atlantic ocean a briny, maritime taste to scotch from the Hebrides (Islay, Skye). Traditionally, single malts are aged in barrels that once held another product - most likely bourbon. The trend to age them in a wider selection of barrels, including ones that at one time held sherry or port is more recent. Appealing trace flavours leach from these woods into the scotch. Some take this theme further by aging in a combination of barrels from different sources (beginning in bourbon, say, but finishing in sherry).

Blended scotches are combinations of single malts and grain whiskies. More than 40 single malts can go into one famous blend.

Bourbon and Tennessee whiskies are made with at least 51 per cent corn and aged in new charred American oak barrels. These factors give them a fuller, sweeter character. By law they must be bottled at minimum of 80 proof with no additional colouring or flavourings. While there are about 200 bourbon brands, they're connected to just a handful of companies. There are only ten or so operating bourbon distilleries in Kentucky, each selling their spirits under a variety of labels (For example Jim Beam Distillery makes Booker's Small Batch Bourbon, Basil Hayden's, Knob Creek, Old Grand-Dad, Old Crow, Baker's and Old Taylor as well as Jim Beam). Differences in flavours are achieved by using different recipes for the grains, along with altering how long and where in the warehouse the bourbon is aged.

Irish Whiskies are triple distilled for extra smoothness and finesse.

Canadian whiskies generally are very approachable, tending towards a sweetness. Corn and rye are the dominant grains, and aging can take place in old bourbon, brandy, port or sherry casks. They are the number one selling distilled spirit in Canada, accounting for over one quarter of the market and over 3.6 million cases in 2002. Canada is the largest producer of whisky outside of the British Isles and United States.

Highland Park 25 Year Old*****½
500249 $280. Orkney Island, Scotland
The world's most northerly whisky distillery on a wine swept island off the north tip of Scotland, founded in 1789 in Kirkwall at a time when whisky was heavily taxed. Magnus Eunson, like many of the day was an illicit distiller by night, hiding the evidence under the pulpit he preached on during the day. Bronze with deep mahogany tints. Mature oak bouquet with some peatiness from the peat beds at Marwick and a fiery note from its cask strength (53.5 per cent) alcohol. Rich, full, powerful and majestic. Smoky, oaky vanilla sweetness on the palate and everlasting coffee-toffee and spices on the finish.

The Macallan 18 Year Old ****
214759 $143.95 Speyside, Scotland
The ancient manor house of Easter Elchies is home of The Macallan, site of legal whisky making since 1824. Distilled in 1984 and earlier, after aging in sherry casks from Jerez, Spain. Deep, rich nutty, rubbery oloroso sherry bouquet and rounded, honeyed, tobacco, malt depth that's lingering and oaky. Velvety smooth.

Glenfiddich Ancient Reserve 18 Year Old ****
530352 $89.95 Speyside, Scotland
Distillery built in 1887 in the Valley of the Deer or "Glen Fiddich" in Gaelic, their products are the only highland malts to be distilled, matured and bottled at their own distillery. Still managed and owned by the same family that built it. Use the local Conval Hill's spring water from start to finish. Aged in oloroso sherry and traditional bourbon casks. Fragrant apples bouquet with a classy elegance, a slightly honeyed, mellow finish and lovely balance.

Chivas Regal 18 Year Old****
582205 $82.95 Scotland
A classic for cigars. All single malts more than 18 years old; one of the world's renown premium blended scotches. Great balance, spicy delicacy, very mellow and full bodied in the mouth. Some lively vanilla notes with a sweet spiced finish.

Ardbeg 10 Year Old ****
560474 $74.95, Islay, Scotland
Very light amber. Pronounced peaty, smoky bouquet. Refined yet velvety. Powerful and lengthy complexity of surprisingly good body, flavour, in a fine balanced structure. Tastes of sweet chewing tobacco, smoke, fruits, cinnamon and more.

Bowmore Mariner 15 Year Old ****
514125 $58.55 Islay, Scotland
One of the oldest distilleries, established in 1779, it's nestled on the shores of Loch Indaal on an Inner Hebridean isle. Golden amber colour and hints of medicinals, iodine, peat and salty sea in the nose and taste. Mellow, firm, full bodied, caramel and smoked tar with a lengthy velvety grip on the palate.

Dalmore Cigar Malt ****
525568 $54.95 Highland, Scotland
Designed to go with cigars, it has a robust, malty, sweet tobacco, smoky nose. Hearty, rich, full-bodied, leathery, sweet malt flavours. Yummy.

The Balvenie Double Wood 12 Year Old****
387316 $54.75 Speyside, Scotland
Since 1893 Balvenie has been making malts in copper stills. This matured first in American whiskey, then oloroso sherry oak cask both which show in the bouquet. Flavourful, layered and velvety mellow with sherry/bourbon aspects to the taste. Nice depth with a warm spirited finish.

Highland Park 12 Year Old ****
204560 $49.95 Orkney Island, Scotland
World's most northerly distillery. Golden amber, robust and balanced, intense yet sophisticated. Smoky, leathery, lightly peaty honey bouquet. Firm grip while smooth, rounded with a sweet smoky, lingering finish.

Longmorn Highland 15 Year Old ****
394445 $49.95 Speyside, Scotland
On the site of an ancient abbey, the name comes from the Gaelic for "place of the holy man". Perfumed, silky suppleness. Gently heathery aromatics and a medium full firm body and heather, honey sweetness to the taste with some spirity fire in the finish.

Bowmore Islay 12 Year Old ****
330803 $46.65, Islay, Scotland
Complex, caramel, smoky sea breeze nose. Lots of seaweed, peat, smoked leather and firm power in the taste. Honeyed, rounded yet lengthy, punchy finish. Full of distinctive character.

Scapa 12 Year Old ****
502559 $44.95 , Orkney, Scotland
Made on the banks of the Lingro since 1885 in copper stills, maturing in cliff top warehouses overlooking the waters of Scapa Flow. Pretty malt with a slightly salty apple fruity nose and smooth, honeyed, almost buttery warmth. Creamy, honey in the mouth, followed by spiciness, heather and a length finish.

The Glenlivet French Oak 12 Year Old ****
577049 $44.05, Speyside, Scotland
Finished in new French limousin oak casks. Mildly minerally smoky nose. Gentle, well balanced, harmonious single malt with a sweet coating of vanilla oak in the elegant finish.

Ian MacLeod Dun Bheagan Islay 8 Year Old ****
576397 $45.95 Isle of Skye, Scotland
Distillery located in the village of Dun Bheagan seat of the clan MacLeod since the 13th century. A collection of single malts matured there in oak, bottled in the old fashioned way without chill filtration for extra taste and smoothness. Deep golden amber in colour with iodine and medicinal notes. Deep smoky, peaty nose with richly bold yet, mellow Islay flavours, hints of fiery notes, overlaid with a smooth caramel depth. Lingering finish.

Basil Hayden's 8 Year Old ****
326025 $45.25, Kentucky
Recipe dates to 1796; more rye and corn in the mash than most bourbons. Aged in charred American oak then charcoal filtered and chill filtered. Soft, sweet easy style with hints of spice, pepper and honey. Rounded, clean finish.

Blanton's Single Barrel Bourbon ****
280131 $41.45 Kentucky
From barrel #75, warehouse H, Rick number 16, this bottle number 46 is 80 proof. Intense, spiced corn and sweet oak on the nose. Mellow, mouth coating smooth, nice depth and typically sweet vanilla-coconut bourbon character with just a slight bite.

Gentleman Jack Rare Tennessee Whiskey ****
377994 $32.95 Tennessee
First new whiskey in a hundred years made by Jack Daniel's, United States' oldest distillery. Based on Mr. Jack's private recipe. Tennessee hard maple charcoal filtered twice and aged in charred American oak barrels. Spicy maple wood nose and soft sweetly smooth taste of sweet wood and sour mash corn with a hint of minerals. Layered on the palate.

Té Bheag Connoisseur's Blend ****
949172 $34.95/700mL, Scotland
Bottled without chill filtering to preserve character. Name means "the little lady" and is pronounced "chey vek". High proportion of single malts from sherry cask. Some west coast peatiness, quite complex and hearty with a mellow, rich, rum-toffee, sherry sweetness. Golden amber colour.

Century Reserve 21 Year Old ****
541912 $39.95/700mL Canada
Oldest aged rye in the country. Made in small batches and aged 21 years in oak. Honeyed aromatic nose follows through in the sweet silky butterscotch taste with some spicy depth and oaky barrel finish. Combines spice, intrigue and lightness.

Red Breast 12 Year Old Pot Still Irish Whiskey ****
636845 $39.95 Ireland
Pure pot still whiskey distilled three times and aged in bourbon and sherry casks a minimum of 12 years. It has an intriguing rich vanilla fruit, nutty, oaky nose akin to armagnac. Truly rich, mellow and complex with a lingering smooth honeyed vanilla-oaked sweetness and spice in the finish.

Maker's Mark Bourbon ****
103747 $32.45 Kentucky
Old sour mash style made at distillery established in 1887 near Loretto. Still very mass produced, each barch is less than 19 barrels. Sweet, oaky caramel, charred new oak and toffee character. Quite dense, heavy sweetness from the process and the corn.

Johnnie Walker Blue ***½
308155 $220. Scotland
A recreation of a 19th century blend of 40 to 60 year old Highland malts. Bright, yellow gold colour with nice smoky, peaty nose; multi-layered with flavour. Rich, bold and smooth on the palate.

Chivas Royal Salut 21 Year Old ***½
56440 $149.95 Scotland
Created to celebrate the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II and presented in a hand finished porcelain flagon. Ultra premium blend of scotch grain and malt whiskies aged over 21 years in sherry and bourbon casks. Bronze tinged amber. Surprisingly fresh nose of hay and fruits: soft feminine, honeyed, nutty on the palate at first followed by a firm long finish. Starts like a girl, ends like a woman. Rounded, pretty in nature until you realize its power though never aggressive, always sweet natured.

Lagavulin 16 Year Old***½
207126 $89.95 Islay, Scotland
Produced since 1816. The Moorland peat, oak casks, sea air and water that flow over moss and rocks create great complexities. Powerful malty sweet flavours at first, then bracing pungent brine, seaweed, peat and smoke. Intense smoky, well structured, with a deeply lingering finish.

Bowmore Darkest Islay Sherry Casked ***½
503649 $89.95 Islay, Scotland
Matured in cool, moist No. 1 vaults of Black Bowmore that lie below sea level. The aging in sherry oak adds a depth and intrigue. Deep bronzed copper colour. Rubbery oloroso sherry aroma, followed by an intense character that's medicinal, salty and peaty, then sweet sherry. Wildly different with a lengthy smoked dark chocolate finish.

Glen Breton Rare Canadian Single Malt ***½
601062 $89.95, Nova Scotia
Made at Glenora Distillery in Inverness County where the Gaelic culture and language still thrives. Water from MacLellan's Brook flows from the Mabou Highlands to go into the making of North America's only single malt. Light amber. Lightly fragrant minerally apples bouquet. Silky smooth honeyed maple character. Gentle delicate, slightly floral fruity taste with a spirity finish.

The Glenlivet 18 Year Old ***½
335901 $79.95 Speyside, Scotland
Company established in 1824. After 18 year's in oak, the angel's share evaporated from the casks is more than one third. Elegant, spirity, heathery nose. Gentle, rounded and supple but with an undercurrent of power and finesse. Butterscotch depth with a sweet oaked finish.

Glenrothes 1989 Vintage ***½
543694 $79.95 Speyside, Scotland
Distillery by the burn of Rothes. Bottle in 2003 at 12 years of maturity, it's golden amber colour. Rich, sweet caramel aromas and a mellow, richly full vanilla butterscotch taste with hints of smoke, dried fruits and nuts in the finish.

Booker's Kentucky Straight Bourbon ***½
325993 $79.70 Kentucky
Uncut, unfiltered, inspired by a 200 year old recipe, this sample has 63.30 per cent alcohol and seven years, three months aging. Sweet, vanilla, corn oak nose that belies its drying punch in the mouth. Powerful, spirited with lingering tastes of nuts, fruit, rubber and smoke. Fiery test of a man.

Baker's Small Batch Bourbon ***½
326017 $42.75 Kentucky
Straight bourbon, the mash fermented with jug yeast in the family 60 years. Aged seven years in oak barrels and bottled at 53.5 percent alcohol. Gripping with a spirity caramel nose and toasted barrel, nutty toffee notes with a lingering finish. Broad biting power.

Glenkinchie 10 Year Old ***½
238113 $64.45, Lowland, Scotland
An Edinburgh malt, first distilled in 1833. Slippery smooth, subtle dram. Sweetly fragrant gentle bouquet and lightly leafy smoked barley and supple rounded sweetness on the palate.

Dalwhinnie Highland 15 Year Old ***½
238097 $64.45, Highland, Scotland
Subtly aromatic nose. Gentle, rounded softness that's delicately smoky with a lingering honeyed, smoky finish. Feminine delicacy with a firm backbone.

The Macallan 12 Year Old ***½
186429 $62.90, Speyside Scotland
Matured in oak casks that were new wood when they held sherry in them for two years prior. Deep golden amber with a slightly rubbery oloroso sherry bouquet. Distinctive sherry nuttiness, lingering and rich with flavours.

Glenfiddich Solera Reserve 15 Year Old ***½
530345 $59.95, Speyside, Scotland
Matured in three types of oak - sherry, bourbon and new oak - and then married in the solera vat before a final finishing period in solera tuns. Amber colour with a fragrant bouquet of honey vanilla, pear and nuts. Smooth, medium bodied, it's a taste combo of dried fruits, spice and honeyed oak.

Glenmorangie Port Wood Finish ***½
393165 $59.95 Scotland
Finished in port pipes after spending the first twelve or so in American oak. Ruby tinged bronze colour. Hints of sweet raison/port in the nose. Smooth port like tastes mixed with traditional scotch flavours.

Talisker 10 Year Old ***½
249680 $64.45 Isle of Skye, Scotland
Founded in 1830, now the only distillery on the island. The peating is quite pronounced. Rubbery, iodine and kippers bouquet redolent of the local seaweed. Fiery bite tamed by caramel. Full flavoured, pungent and assertive with sea, peat and smoke.

Glendronach 15 Year Old ***½
453761 $54.95 Speyside Scotland
Handcrafted methods unchanged since 1826: traditional malting floor, coal-fired copper pot stills, stone maturation houses and all. Sherry cask matured. Ruby-bronzed gold colour. Defined fruity, oloroso sherry nose with rich smoked oak and spiced whisky tones. Full bodied, almost chewy with smoke, peat and malt that lingers. Overall mellow sherry and oak warmth.

Knob Hill Creek Bourbon ***½
326009 $39.95 Kentucky
A nine year old straight bourbon bottled at 50 percent alcohol, after aging in charred American white oak. Rich, medium full-bodied with maple sugar aspects, sweet corn and oak tastes with a fragrant but fiery finish.

Chivas Brothers Strathisla 12 Year Old *** ½
394437, $47.95 Highland, Scotland
Oldest Highland distillery, producing since 1786. Lightly peated barley malt and spring water the only ingredients. Golden amber. Rich vanilla, honeyed, lightly peated bouquet. Silky firm body with a smooth delicacy of honeyed heather. A lady in velvet.

Tobermory 10 Year Old ***½
216895 $46.95 Isle of Mull, Scotland
Founded in 1798, the only distillery on the isle. Light amber, lightly malted barley with a slightly smoky nose and smooth, rounded fruit taste. One of the gentlest of the island malts.

Glenmorangie 10 Year Old ***½
94052 $44.95, Highland, Scotland
Gaelic for "the glen of tranquility", distilling has been going on here since 1700. Aged in American bourbon barrels, with a pale amber colour, light spirity floral bouquet and silky texture with nutty, creamy notes.

Laphroaig 10 Year Old ***½
135210 $44.95 Islay, Scotland
Distillery established in 1815, the name comes from Gaelic for "the beautiful hollow by the broad bay". Malted barley dried over a fire of the island's peat lends a distinctive strong flavour. Medicinal, iodine and seaweed, enhanced by smoke and peat. Sweet smooth backdrop to it all.

Auchentoshan 10 Year Old ***½
341750 $44.95, Lowland, Scotland
One of the few lowland malt distilleries left and likely the only to triple distill. Made at the foot of old Kilpatrick Hills by the River Clyde, near Glasgow since 1823. Bright golden amber colour. Spicy, perfumed aromatics. Characteristically fruity, gentle, very silky and smoothly accessible to even non-scotch aficionados. Sweet, lingering minerally finish.

Dalmore 12 Year Old ***½
73999 $45.95 Highland, Scotland
Producing since 1839 using the clear water from the River Alness. Malty, quite robust with a toffee bouquet with some hay-like herbs. Smoky, caramel taste that's mellow, lingering and quite full.

Wild Turkey Rare Breed Bourbon ***½
310185 $42.95 Kentucky
Aged in new charred oak barrels, gaining flavours from the local limestone water. Barrel proof (54.2 per cent) it's wild yet mellow. Full body with some minerally notes in the sweet corn oaked character.

Bushmills 10 Year Old ***½
131870 $39.95 Ireland
Distillery established in 1608. Unpeated malt barley, triple distilled using water from St. Columb's Rill that flows over ancient basalt rock. Aged in oloroso sherry and American oak casks. Aromatic gently honeyed vanilla nose. Very smooth, supple with mellow honey vanilla spiced honey tones that linger to the finish.

The Glenlivet 12 Year Old ***½
21097 $38.95 Speyside, Scotland
Officially distilling since 1824 - it got the first licence in the Highlands. Josie's well still pours forth mineral rich water to feed the mash tun. Quite subtle peaty, pear aromatics. Mellow, softness, then lingering strength and a sweet oak vanilla taste.

Wise's Very Old ***½
21949 $34.95 Canada
An 18 year old with a sweet perfumed rye nose of toffee candy. Sweet caramel, velvety mellow taste that's smooth, oaked, and rich with a touch of spice.

Crown Royal Special Reserve ***½
321268 $49.95 Canada
Special blend with a nutmeg, woodsy, custardy spiced bouquet. Tastes of Christmas pudding spices, old wood, and toffee in a full, mellow base.

McClelland's Speyside ***½
573337 $32.65, Speyside, Scotland
The fast flowing Spey River in the heart of Scotland boasts more distilleries than anywhere else. Mildly sweet with vanilla, oak in a soft mellow body. Value priced.

Gibson's Finest Rare 18 Year Old ***½
469114 $31.20, Canada
Golden amber with an old woodsy, spiced nose. Velvety smooth, rich caramel taste with wood notes in the finish. Rich, woody and mellow depth.

McClelland's Islay ***½
404160 $31.70, Islay, Scotland
Typical island briny, peaty bouquet. Leathery, smooth taste with lingering smoke and peat. Rounded silky finish. Vaguely hollow but nicely done for the price as an intro to the Islays.
Drumguish ***½
545525 $29.70, Speyside, Scotland
From a small independent producer located by River Tromie as it enters the Spey, site of a former barley mill. Quite light bodied, dry and heathery with hints of caramel, it's fruity and gentle on the palate with a bit of a bite in the finish.

Canadian Club Classic 12 Year Old ***½
126466 $24.95 Canada
Soft, rounded with a baked apple, tarte tatin like character. Fragrant and aromatic in bouquet with a mellow, smoothly sweet finish.

Tangle Ridge Rye Whisky ***½
561894 $24.95 Canada
A pure rye aged ten years in oak, then blended with a bit of sherry and other flavours, recasked and left to mellow. It has burnt caramel and butterscotch aromas, with a rich ultra velvety smooth sweetness on the palate and hints of sherry. Just lacks on complexity and depth.

Power's Gold Label Irish Whiskey ***½
636852 $27.95 Ireland
Established 1791. Triple distilled in pot stills then aged in oak. Very smooth, mild mannered, silky with some herbs in nose and taste.

Grant's Family Reserve ***½
31112 $21.95, Scotland
Golden amber with a rounded, creamy texture. Caramel sweetness with spiced heather. Good value among the standard scotches.

Alberta Springs 10 Year Old Rye ***½
6361 $21.25 Canada
Sprightly aromatic nose. Sweet smooth taste with lively, honeyed lightness so the rye can be noticed. Quite mild and clean.

Alberta Premium Rye ***½
984 $20.25 Canada
Prairie rye distilled with Rocky Mountain water. Gentle, mellow, mild with a rich sweetness. Mellow, mild smooth custardy sweet taste and bracing but not harsh lingering finish.

Cragganmore 12 Year Old ***
192732 $64.45 Speyside, Scotland
Built in 1869 near spring water running off Craggan Mor Hill. Delicate flowery nose. Malty with a sweet oak, smoky lingering honey taste.

Oban 14 Year Old ***
243824 $89.95 West Highland, Scotland
Distillery dates to 1794. Golden amber with a gently peaty, malty bouquet. Quite full, rich honeyed flavour of dried fruits. Power and smoky caramel with hints of sea in character. In-between a Speyside and an Island malt in style.

Jack Daniel's Single Barrel ***
480616 $49.95 Tennessee
A 94 proof single barrel whiskey that's charcoal mellowed (bottles each drawn from individual barrels). This from barrel 2-2425. Bronzed gold. Honeyed nose with a slightly fiery bite of alcohol. Smooth, silky taste with hints of banana and maple.

Wiser's Deluxe Canadian Whiskey ***
893 $22.95
Distilled since 1857. One of six distilled brands to sell half a million cases annually in Canada. Well aged in oak, it has a very sweet crème caramel character with a honeyed nose and thick rich mouth feel.

Maharashtra Distillery Director's Special ***
586560 $20.25, India
Matured Indian malts and extra neutral alcohol with added caramel and flavour, it's one of India's most popular whiskies. Palish amber with a malty sweetness on the palate. A hollow middle but decent enough with scotch like tastes.