Wine Questions and Answers (First appeared in
Chatelaine Magazine)
How long can you
keep wine?
This depends on the kind of wine and the storage conditions. The vast
majority of whites are meant to be consumed immediately but will keep
a year or two if stored at a constant, cool temperature. The fridge is
not a good place as it can dry out the cork (screw-caps and bag-in-the-box
excepted). Rather store in a basement or dark cupboard, away from strong
odors, heat and light. Cool climate whites from countries like Canada,
France and Germany tend to have more acidity which helps keep their freshness
longer than white from the hot climes of say Australia. Certain top whites
such as those from France's Burgundy (e.g. Corton-Charlemagne, Chablis
Grand Crus) and great rieslings from Germany, Canada (particularly riesling
icewine) and Austria can age ten to twenty years or even more. Reds are
more long lived as they have more of a natural preservative called tannins
obtained from barrel aging and from their skins. Simple reds will keep
two to five years but the biggest and the best can last decades. These
include fine Bordeaux, Grand Cru and Premier Cru Burgundies, Italian Barolos,
Brunellos and Chianti Classico Reservas, Spain's Vega Sicilia, top California
cabernets and cabernet blends, Rhone Valley's Hermitage and Côte
Rôtie, Portugal's Barca Velha and Australia's Grange and other top
shiraz based reds.
Why do People say red wine with meat and white wine with
fish?
This old chestnut actually has a kernel of truth. Tannins in red wine
coagulate proteins in our saliva and mouth tissues, causing a dry puckering
effect. A rare steak has uncoagulated proteins, which bind with the tannins
to make them taste smoother. Sometimes when I've been judging red wines,
the organizers have given us rare roast beef to refresh our palates. A
fatty substance such as a cream or cheese sauce or a richly oily food
even if it's fish (say salmon cassarole), will also smooth out a red.
So you can do reds with certain fish or white meat dishes and still enjoy
the match. On the other hand seafoods are high in umami, a naturally occurring
glutamate (similar to MSG) with a savoury taste, which will enhance the
bitterness in a red wine or leave a metallic taste in the mouth when they
react with tannin. Hence white is generally a safer bet. Salt however
can help neutralize the bitter tastes in wine and sour tastes in food
can lower the perception of bitterness. Cod served in a tomato and black
olive sauce therefore may well go well with a red. On the other hand delicate
white-fleshed fish and shrimp simply prepared are best with a white.
I like oaky chardonnay. What are some good Canadian ones?
With about 70 grape based wineries in Ontario and the same number in British
Columbia (and ever growing), we have lots of choice. Look for the "reserve"
level of wines as this is a good general indication that the chardonnay
has been oak aged. We generally aged our whites in French or American
oak, but a few such as Lailey Vineyard in Niagara Peninsula have also
experimented with Canadian oak. Some of my favourites I've recently tasted
from Niagara are Henry of Pelham Chardonnay Reserve 2001 ($14.), Malivoire
Moira Vineyard Chardonnay 2000 ($36), Thirty Bench Chardonnay Reserve
1998 ($35), Andrew Peller Signature Series Chardonnay sur lie 2000 ($28.),
Peninsula Ridge Chardonnay Reserve 2000 ($40) and Cave Spring Reserve
2000 ($20.). In the Okanagan Burrowing Owl Estate Chardonnay ($22.) is
impressive as is Sandhill's barrel fermented Chardonnay 2001 from Burrowing
Owl vineyard ($14.95). Quail's Gate Family Reserve 2000 ($30.) is a recent
silver award winner at the 2002 Best of Varietal Judging Competition at
the Okanagan Spring Wine Festival. CedarCreek Chardonnay Platinum Reserve
2000 ($28) is another yummy award winning choice.
Do any Canadian wineries deliver to your door?
The good news is yes many do deliver. Customers pay a delivery charge
per case along with the retail price of the wines. Since, for example,
an estimated 70 per cent of wine brands in Ontario are not generally available
in the LCBO outlets, it's an important service. Some have elaborate programs.
For example Peller by Request and Hillebrand by Request (byrequest@winecountryathome.com
or 1-800-263-8465) offer people who join the club two VQA wines shipped
directly every month to their home as well as tasting notes and matched
recipes for the wines. Club membership also includes discounts at the
winery stores and special invitations to winery events. The price of $35
to $42 per month ($72 for both) includes the wine and all other costs.
It's open to Ontario residents for delivery anywhere in the province.
If you find a wine you like you can then order it by the case. Winery
to Home (www.winerytohome.com) is a new company that handles orders from
about a dozen Niagara wineries including Cave Spring, Reif Estates, Thirty
Bench and Henry of Pelham. Winery specific newsletters, tasting notes
on the wines and independent reviews of the wines by wine critics are
part of the service. They plan to start with delivery in the Greater Toronto
area with service expanded throughout the province once courier details
are finalized. Mixed cases from individual wineries are possible. Almost
all of the wineries in British Columbia deliver within the province according
to the BC Wine Institute, which polled its members. Some such as Quail's
Gate www.quailsgate.com and Mission Hill www.missionhillwinery.com offer
delivery to other provinces on orders taken over the internet. The best
way to find out who does internet sales is to go to the winery website
and click on order wine (find the websites through a search engine such
as google by typing in the winery name).
I've read South African wines are good value. Can you
recommend some?
The weakness of the South African rand has given us some good deals in
wine.Vineyards are dispersed throughout Cape Province from the Atlantic
to the Indian Ocean planted with an ever-growing variety of grapes. While
chenin blanc, locally known as steen still takes up about a third of the
vineyards, since the mid eighties the wineries have focused on other European
varietals such as chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot
and shiraz. In 1990 these five varietals accounted for only ten percent
of the total vineyard plantings; ten years later, that figured had doubled.
Home grown pinotage (a.k.a. hermitage), the Cape's 1925 crossing of pinot
noir and cinsault, is also on the increase. It's a versatile red that
can be made in a youthful, fresh style for drinking cool, or oak aged
for more depth and structure. New cooler sites such as Walker Bay and
Elgin are proving to be good for varieties like pinot noir and sauvignon
blanc. The historic Stellenbosch region, centered around the university
town of that name, about 45 kilometres west of Cape Town, has the greatest
concentration of leading estates - including Meerlust, Delheim, Mulderbosch,
Simonsig and Thelema. Paarl region is home to the Cooperative Growers'
Association (KWV) the largest winery in South Africa. Simonsig Estate
pinotage ($14.) from Stellenbosch is flavourful with smoky, red currant
fruits. Kumala cinsault-pinotage ($8.) from the Western Cape is good value
with a soft, plum, lightly smoky taste. Bellingham Shiraz ($13.) also
a Western Cape red is big and full with tons of ripe berry fruit. Cape
Indaba shiraz ($10.) from Stellenbosch is a friendly, straightforward,
sweet blackberry tasting red. In whites Tribal Sauvignon blanc Colombard
($7.) is simple, lightly herbal with some grassy varietal tones at a real
bargain. Simonsig Estate Chardonnay ($12.) is full of tangy fruit enhanced
by toasty buttery notes. Hippo Creek sauvignon blanc ($9.) is a reliable
crisp white with some gooseberry grassiness.
When should you decant a wine and why?
When you decant a wine, you pour it from the bottle into a carafe like
container, normally glass or crystal, that's big enough to hold the contents
of the entire bottle. There are two possible reasons to do this. If the
wine is a young tannic red, it will benefit from being aerated. The exposure
to oxygen while you pour it into the decanter starts the process of softening
the wine. Then as it sits in the container it will smooth out more. (Just
opening a bottle is generally not enough due to its small neck, hence
minimal exposure of the wine to air.) Depending on the wine you may need
to leave it to "breathe" for an hour or several. Older reds
often develop sediment as elements in the wine solidify and precipitate
out over time. These particles while harmless, taste bitter. To remove
them, stand the bottle upright for a day or two so the sediment settles
completely to the bottom of the bottle. Then open the bottle and pour
the wine slowly into a decanter. Watch for the cloudiness of the sediment
and stop when you see it (normally when you get to the last inch or two
of wine). Most sommeliers do this work with a candle shining up through
the bottle neck to allow them to better see the sediment. Any bright light
will do.
I'm planning a party. Would you give me some inexpensive
red and white wine suggestions
Party wines should have good flavour
but not be too complex or challenging to the palate. You have a lot of
different palates to please so smooth, fruity style wines that aren't
too acidic work best. Of course a good price is de rigueur when there's
a crowd to serve. Luckily there are many possibilities if you look at
lesser-known regions of famous wine countries or among the New World wines.
In France the Pays d'Oc in the south is the world's biggest vineyard area
and the country's leading producer in volume of wine. Andre Millot Chardonnay
2002 and Merlot 2002 both sell at around $12 for 1.5litre bottles. The
chardonnay is fresh, fruity and lively with tastes of passionfruit. The
merlot is cherry berry in a medium body. The famous Baron Philippe de
Rothschild makes four different Pays d'Oc varietal wines all under ten
dollars namely a chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, merlot and cabernet sauvignon.
Southern Italy is another good source for easy drinking value wines. Corvo
Rosso 2001 ($10.) from Sicily made from local nero d'avola, pignatello
and nerello mascalese grapes has a smooth mellow spicy raisin taste in
a medium body. From Abruzzi, Farnese Sangiovese Daunia 2002 ($7.) was
voted Italian best value wine last year by one of the country's important
wine guides (Luca Maroni). It's sleek in structure with some oak and spice
with supple tannins and cherry notes. Farnese also makes a Montepulciano
d'Abruzzo sold in 1.5 litre size ($12.) that has a bit more bite and intrigue
with a spiced fruit taste. South America is a great for bargain hunting.
Argentina's Trapiche chardonnay and their red malbec (both under $8.)
are friendly, fruity and soft on the palate. From Chile Santa Rita Chardonnay
120 ($9.) is soft, fruity with a medium body and creamy texture that's
pleasant and easy to quaff. Their red merlot 120 is also fruity and pleasant
as is that of Vina Carmen ($10.). From South Africa try Nederburg Sauvignon
Blanc 2001 ($10.) from the Western Cape for its fresh, clean zippy lemon-lime
and grapefruit tastes or Two Oceans Sauvignon Blanc ($8.) with lighter
but similar citrus notes. Cape Indaba Shiraz and Kumala Cinsault Pinotage
are both smooth reds under ten. Spain also has lots of value wines. Oro
Penedes Hill 2002 ($8.) is a white xarel-lo and muscat blend that's light
and aromatic and Candidato Oro 1999 ($8.) is a red made from mainly tempranillo
grapes that's easy going with sweet vanilla, oak and light fruit tastes.
From Australia Yellow Tail's a brand that's taken the world by storm.
The Chardonnay 2002 ($10.) is ripe with tropical mango flavours in a creamy
texture. Tyrrell's Long Flat Red and Long Flat White (both around $10.)
are consistently smooth, fruity and bargain priced. Ontario's Chateau
des Charmes Silver Label Cabernet 2000 ($10. or $18. for 1.5 Litre) and
Silver Label Chardonnay deliver good flavour for the price in a smooth
drinking style. Mission Hill Pinot Blanc 2002 from the Okanagan ($11.)
is fresh with citrus and tropical fruits.
I like to celebrate with bubbly. Would you please suggest
some sparkling wine choices in a range of prices?
Every two seconds someone pops a cork of Champagne somewhere in the world.
It's synonymous with celebration. The traditional method for making sparkling
wine - we must call it this as the word Champagne rightfully belongs to
the famous region in France where making bubbly all began - involves bottling
still wines and inducing a second fermentation by adding sugar and yeast
to create captured bubbles in each individual bottle. This difficult and
costly way to make fizz has the most refined, lingering and tiny the bubbles.
Many inexpensive bubblies are quite successfully made by the charmat method
(cuvée close in French). The natural carbon dioxide that is created
during the second fermentation, is kept from dissipating by holding the
wine in a sealed tank and bottling under pressure.Most Champagnes are
a blend of pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay grapes. Generally
the more pinot noir in a blend, the fuller the wine. Blanc de Blancs is
pure chardonnay, tending to a crisper style with elegant finesse. Each
Champagne house has its own style with some aiming for a bigger fuller
flavour, barrel fermenting in new oak, using oak aged reserve wines and
so forth. Others go for more austerity and dry refinement.
Krug Grande Cuvée Brut ($176.) is a prestige brand with a full
toasty style. It's a justly famous Champagnes that along with Crystal
Brut ($220.) and Dom Perignon ($165.) is reserved for very special occasions.
Charles Heidsieck Brut ($48), well priced for Champagne, is from the three
classic grape varieties. It has a toasted brioche bouquet, is fairly full
with length, good depth and fruit.
Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut ($35.) is a classy made in California
traditional method sparkler from mainly chardonnay grapes. It's crisp,
lean and elegant with a toasty floral nose and citrus finish. Aria Estate
Brut ($15.) made in Spain by the traditional method from local grapes
macabeo, parellada and xarel-lo is moderately tart and dry with a lightly
toasty nose. It's mainly vinous in taste with some apple notes. Segura
Viudas Brut Reserve ($12.) also from the same Spanish company is made
by the traditional method from the local grape varieties. It's medium
bodied and fresh with a slightly spicy fruity taste and forward brioche
nose. Seaview Brut 2000 ($11.) is an Australian traditional method sparkler
that's frothy, soft and quite full, rounded and fruity. From Ontario Henry
of Pelham Cuvee Saint Catharines Brut ($25.) is traditional method with
30 months aging on the lees resulting in a wine with complex and elegant
aromas. It has bright fruit with subtle toast and baked apple tones. Sumac
Ridge Prestige Cuvée Brut ($30.) from the Okanagan is a chardonnay,
pinot noir and pinot blanc blend that's toasty with lemony notes and nice
length and depth.
Bottega Vino Dei Poeti Prosecco ($13.) made in northern Italy from prosecco
grapes is a charmer made in the charmat method. It has floral aromatic
aromas with a slightly off-dry freshness and an easy going nature. Remy
Pannier Chardonnay Brut ($11.) is a charmat method sparkler from France
that's fresh, fruity and just off-dry. Clean, rounded and frothy in the
mouth. Those who like their sparkers a bit sweeter and grapy in character
will enjoy the charmat method Martini and Rossi Asti Demi-Sec ($10.) made
from the muscat grape grown in northern Italy.