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Every spring when the Wine Institute of California holds their annual Wine Fair tour that crosses Canada golf club managers came out in force. Wine agents in the know say California wines are big on the golf courses. They are the "go to" wine. Private golf club members may have a beer or two to refresh right after a game but when they sit down to dinner it is wine that's the beverage of choice. However in summertime few want the tannic old world reds that demand attention, veneration and long cellar aging. People opt for the more ripe grape character offered by wines from warmer climates. California, Australian, or South American reds are gentler on the palate and often the pocket book. The Golden State tops the chart in popularity. Golf club managers I talked to all spoke of Cali cabs. With over 1,000 Californian wineries as members of the Wine Institute, choice is never a problem. Or perhaps it is. There is not only a myriad of cabernets but also almost 100 other grape varieties grown in nearly 100 viticultural regions. It's the world's fourth largest wine producer after Italy, France and Spain. It's a blessing then that our clubs do some tasting and selection for us. Tiger Woods I've heard is a sophisticated consumer who favours the pricy Far Niente wines of Napa Valley. I'm told that when he wins the green jacket at Augusta, Far Niente cabernet and chardonnay are his dinner picks. Of course you can't go wrong with those big boys of California including Cakebread, Phelps, Chateau St. Jean, and Etude if you have the bucks. For the best from their cellars you generally need at least a C-note per bottle at retail. Chateau St. Jean's Cinq Cépages Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (Ontario Classics Catalogue $99.) is an amazingly lush yet elegant red from the best Bordeaux variety vineyards in Sonoma County. (Predominantly cabernet sauvignon it's blend has four other classic Bordeaux varietals.) Its trademark chocolate cherry bouquet is enhanced by its gripping yet plump tannins and great intensity. Chateau St. Jean also has a lovely Sonoma County Fumé Blanc 2005 ($19.95) that's a perfect balance of tangy citrus fruit and ripe melon, crisp yet well rounded on the palate. Etude Merlot 2002 from Napa Valley ($99.99) is an iconic red with big bold ripe flavours, sweet with alcohol (14.8%), plump and plummy in the mouth. Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is such a fine wine at a tremendous value ($39.95) that it is a Vintages Essential at the LCBO. The 2004 vintage has a pure ripe brambleberry character and layers of sweet oak and smokiness that is open-knit yummy enjoyment. Stag's Leap has a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 that's also well-priced ($55) for its quality offering a nicely structured firm berry oak character with polished elegance. What a perfect day. Swing on the course then swig Californian on the 19th hole.
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