The Charles Inn and Shaw Club Hotel – The Antique and The Modern
By Margaret Swaine
The opening of Shaw Club Hotel in picturesque Niagara-on-the-Lake is the yang to the yin of sister hotel The Charles Inn. Both are owned and operated by hotelier Sue Murray yet are as different as Judi Dench and Hilary Swank. The Charles, an antique filled renovated home built in 1832 appeals to history lovers with its old world charm. The Shaw Club is sleekly modern, nestled in a former motel whose dowdiness was totally gutted. The duo both have lovely dining rooms and central locations so where to bed is a matter of personal taste.
Niagara-on-the-Lake, the first capital of Upper Canada, is the quiet pretty cousin to garish bustling Niagara Falls. (It was settled in the late 1700’s by Loyalists coming to Upper Canada.) This bucolic small town is the perfect escape from city hustle. The sidewalks roll up by about nine at night. Those exiting from the theatres during Shaw Festival time create the only night time buzz apart from the bar at the Angel Inn. During the day however at this time of year in the fall, there are wine festivals and winery tours, golf, country walks, boating, cycling and until mid November, Shaw Theatre performances.
Shaw Club which opened in June of this year is the new kid on the block at the corner of Picton – Niagara’s main drag – and Wellington. Directly across from the Shaw Festival Theatre it’s at the heart of the town’s action. While Murray’s first hotel, The Harbour House built in 2003, is also modern this knocks contemporary up to a sophistication not offered before in NOTL. All the hallmarks of an upscale boutique hotel are standard features in the renovated rooms. This includes flat screen TV’s (with mini versions in the bathrooms), slate and marble tiles, hip décor, cool glass showers with oversized multi-headed faucets, complementary wireless internet and iPod stations. For comfort there are 300 count linens, down duvets, in-room coffee machine, fridge and even a pillow library for those who prefer other than the standard-issue five down-feather pillows.
The rooms’ colour scheme is urban chic. Muted off-white tones like sand or almond on the walls or light grey patterned carpets are accented with dark brown wood furniture and the occasional punch of orange, bronze or red in a cushion or table tray. The ‘classic king’ rooms are cozy compact. For those who need a tad more space there are deluxe and superior kings with balconies and one suite. Those on a tight budget can opt for the unrenovated rooms in a separate building but then will forgo the cool gizmos.
Most of the hotel’s exterior is stark to the point of drab. At the front however is the lively Zee’s Patio and Grill with a charming wrap around verandah that’s heated so people can and do sit outside up until December. Zee’s is laid back enough for guests to be comfortable in casual slacks yet with the pizzazz to draw honeymooners, babymooners and birthday celebrants. Chef Ross Midgley adds a little twist to every dish so what’s served is not quite as expected. Caesar salad comes deconstructed on a dish shaped like a painter’s palette. The croutons, parmesan, hard-boiled egg, dressing and bacon surround the romaine ready to add in according to taste. Pop tarts are tomato and raclette cheese with basil pesto and tapenade baked in a light crust. Peppercorn seared tuna is served on baco noir vinaigrette dressed Niagara greens with a side of melon gazpacho. Local produce is a feature as is Niagara wine with five local whites and five reds by the glass. The plates and serving props are so cool that people want to buy them and do. Two doors down is “Et Tu” store which sells the hotels most popular items.
Going further down the road Picton becomes Queen Street and there at the corner of Simcoe sits The Charles Inn. Permeated with history, this was the home of settler Charles Richardson, a member of parliament for English Upper Canada. Its Georgian architecture remains easily recognizable, while the sweeping verandahs and servants’ wing on the east were added at the turn of the century. Totally refurbished in 2004 with many bathrooms redone again last winter (rain showers, heated floors and other perks added), it’s intimate and charming with plenty of quirks.
Each of its 12 rooms is different in décor, size and atmosphere. There’s no elevator and the climb to the third floor Safari Loft is steep. However this attic hideaway is a guest favourite and I personally loved its pitched ceilings and cozy seclusion. The Apple room (#11) and Sunflower room (#12) are tiny. Their lovely bathrooms are their best feature. The Verandah room (#1) a preferred choice, has parts of the old kitchen including the original cook’s fireplace, a private verandah and a Jacuzzi tub. The Daisy Room (#8) is bright and cozy with three large windows peering onto the gardens. The choice of room does make a difference so check the details on the website or over the phone carefully. I saw one American couple whose room wasn’t to their taste check out early while I was at the hotel.
The dining under Chef William Brunyansky is French contemporary with regional influences. Fish in a wine sauce reduction might have a ragout of fresh local vegetables for example. The wine list offers a well-chosen array of Niagara wines. The elegant dining room, painted in a warm persimmon colour is located in the old parlour and still features its original crystal chandeliers. It’s more formal and quieter than Zee’s and guests tend to dress up. Guests of all of Sue Murray’s hotels can eat at any of the restaurants and charge the meal to their room. (Dine around packages are an option.) Breakfast at the Charles on the verandah overlooking the old nine hole Niagara golf course (established in 1875, the oldest in North America) is old world charming and new world filling – especially if you go for one of the three egg omelettes. Whether you stay at the Charles or the Shaw, have a bite or a drink at the other. These opposite poles have their singular attractions.
If You Go (Niagara is a seven hour drive from Ottawa)
Where: Shaw Club, 92 Picton Street, Niagara-on-the-Lake ON L0S 1J0 1-800-511-7070
Charles Inn, 209 Queen Street, Niagara-on-the-Lake ON L0S 1J0 1-800-556-8883
Cost: Shaw Club – Zee’s dinner package (overnight, dinner & breakfast) from $176 per day based on two days. Shaw Theatre package (dinner at Zee’s, theatre, overnight & breakfast) from $335. Unrenovated rooms from $150, classic kings from $185 up to $450 for suites with balcony. Charles Inn – starts at $195 for the Apple and Sunflower rooms up to $310 for the Verandah room (overnight and breakfast). Dinner and theatre packages are available.
Website: www.shawclub.com and www.charlesinn.ca
Activities: Shaw Festival www.shawfest.com Golf www.niagaraparksgolf.com, www.notlgolf.com and https://www.grandniagaragolf.com/ Shopping www.niagaraonthelake.com Wineries www.winecountryontario.ca Winery Tours www.niagaraworldwinetours.com Cycling www.zoomleisure.com