The South Florida Frugal Traveler
By Margaret Swaine
(Melange Magazine, Fall 2005)
There are two basic truths to travel anywhere. You need to walk the streets to really know a place. And traveling frugal doesn’t mean traveling poor. A five star experience can be found for a three star price if you’re travel savvy. At least that’s how I see it from my lifetime of traveling and writing about it. Where best to prove the point but southeast Florida, a place known for both costly glitz and down market cheap vacations depending upon the area. I started this trip in Fort Lauderdale, a city that has worked diligently to shed its spring break status for a better clientele and image. Then I was on to Miami and down to Florida’s Keys. I’d been to all these places before but this time proved the greatest fun at the best price.
If you can choose your vacation dates and like a bargain, travel during the off or shoulder seasons. Also quite frankly it’s fun to be loved for just showing up. Peak times in Florida are the winter months. The rest of the year deals can be found everywhere and while it’s hot, perhaps even steamy with humidity, the rest of America is pretty much in the same boat. For this trip I chose to go in late June when the weather was a sultry high eighties tempered by quick cooling showers that blew through as fast as they blew in.
My goal for lodgings was to find unique classy properties at a price tag of $200 or less a night. The internet was my secret weapon and often listed better prices than available by calling the hotels’ front desks. I was delighted to find the Superior Small Lodging program of Greater Fort Lauderdale, which listed over 85 accommodations of 50 or fewer rooms that meet a high independently judged standard. The Pillars at New River Sound, a Small Luxury Hotel of the World property caught my eye. It had all desires covered: a location on the Intracoastal Waterway with its own water taxi stop, a mere block walk from the beach, tropical landscape surrounding its pool and a landmark 1939 pedigree with fully restored rooms in British Colonial/Island Plantation themes.
My first day at the inn, I walked the boardwalk by the beach. And what a walk it was. As I strolled along I saw a wedding on the sand, complete with white tuxedoed men and ladies in pastels. A Honduran kid climbed a coconut tree in front of me and cut down a nut in three seconds flat. Several tattooed tubs of lard roared by on Harleys and on the sidewalk a frail lady in a motorized wheelchair breezed by at a good clip. There were rollerbladers, sun worshippers, Segway scooter drivers, joggers, power walkers, smooching lovers and teens with matching swim team t-shirts all enjoying the miles and miles of boardwalk and sandy beach. In the heavily populated areas of the 23 miles of beach, every few blocks I saw outdoor showers for rinsing sand, lifeguard huts and various vendors.
That evening I went to Blue Moon, a seafood restaurant by the Intracoastal waters. Locals steered me to it, telling me about the fabulous Sunday brunch, the two for one specials and great atmosphere. A happening place it had friendly staff and inventive, fresh fish dishes. As I munched on Hawaiian spiked Tuna poke served in a martini glass, I chatted with my companions at the large glossy wood bar. Anka, the gorgeous blond Norwegian bartender was excited she was going to be an extra on Miami Vice the next day. The love of a man brought her to Fort Lauderdale. The place kept her enthralled after the marriage ended. Along with the other locals she kept saying, “We are very very spoiled here”. On the way home I stopped at Beach Place, loud with music and people enjoying themselves at Hooters and other chain restaurants. From there I walked along Ocean Drive to the start of Los Olas Boulevard passing by bars and dining spots, their music and outdoor seating spilling out into the night air. At Margarita’s Café I downed a shot from among their 100 tequilas and called it a night though not by necessity. In this party town, bars stay open until 4 a.m.
Much of Fort Lauderdale is land reclaimed by dredging out channels through a mangrove swamp once teaming with alligators. Today multimillion dollar mansions perch by the waterways on thin strips of gardens and lawns in this Venice of America. The best deal for a tour of this aqueous paradise is the five dollar all-day pass for the water taxi. The taxis, 27 to 70 seat water buses, travel canals and rivers of the Intracoastal waters from early morning to late evening allowing passengers to embark and disembark at as many of the 20 stops as desired. It’s much more than transport – it’s corny but funny entertainment. On the half hour trip I took to Los Olas Boulevard shopping district captain Jim amused us with the gossip on the famous residents’ homes as we cruised by. “There’s Lee Major’s former house – he split with Farrah Fawcett before the couple even moved in. Took him two years to sell the place. Seems no one wanted a house without a faucet.” Those kinds of jokes. While movie stars still reside here, fortunes from family businesses have bought many of the spectacular properties for instance Wells Fargo, Oscar Meyer Wieners, Blockbuster Films and LA Fitness.
Las Olas Boulevard (means the wave), an historic palm tree and bougainvillea lined street in the downtown area has “Old Florida” charm, designer shops, elegant restaurants and plenty of outdoor café seating. I disembarked here and headed to Johnny V’s, the hottest newest dining spot in town. The thing about Fort Lauderdale is you could be sitting by a guy in jeans who just stepped off his 40 million dollar yacht. As I enjoyed my grilled spiced shrimp on rock shrimp potato salad I played spot the multimillionaires. The laid back atmosphere is quite unlike the Miami Beach show and be seen. There was no telling.
To get a better look at the yachts, I wandered along the nearby Riverwalk promenade. Here boats of all sizes cruise The New River gliding by the performing arts centers, opera and concert halls and restaurants. A bustling area, it also has a water taxi stop so I took my own cruise back to The Pillars this time entertained by crewman Bob. “The only cheap things on the water are the taxis and my jokes,” he began.
To get to Miami the next day, I took the A1A a pretty route in-between the ocean and the Intracoastal Waterway. In under an hour I was in the heart of the art deco section of South Beach. Tropical SoBe is the centre of Florida nightlife, beautiful people, fashion and famous. It failed as a coconut plantation – its first incarnation – but as a beach destination, it excels. A pervasive Latino culture from the many Cubans and South Americans gives it a soul that’s extroverted, passionate and sexy. I needed my shades for the sun and to cover my eyes from the exuberance of exposed flesh – washboard stomachs, busting out busts, curvaceous butts and on certain northern sections of the beach, fully naked bodacious bodies. Whew it was enough to drive me to diet. My hotel, The Bentley was a quiet serene oasis in the heart of the action on Ocean Drive. It had a celebrity clientele, a discrete second floor lobby, large elegantly furnished rooms and a roof top pool with a view to the ocean.
That night I walked a gauntlet of restaurants and people so jammed onto the sidewalks that I was weaving between diners, strollers, hawkers and vendors for many blocks. Restaurants were shilling customers with mock ups of various dishes such as monster langoustines; others had musicians as the lure. Enterprising hustlers had parrots and boa constrictors tourists could perch on their shoulders or around their neck for a Kodak moment. Lincoln Road, my destination, is a pedestrian Mall which had its own crowd enjoying the cafés, posh shops, ice cream parlors, bars and eateries. All were open late into the night in this city that never sleeps.
I chose to eat at Doraku, Miami’s Nobu minus the attitude and price. Here the emphasis is on sushi rolls, something Americans have come to love. The brainchild of Kevin, a son of Rocky Aoki the founder of Benihana restaurants in America, its happy hour features two for one appetizers and drinks. On Friday when they bring out the free sushi buffet, you can’t get near the place. The last Thursday of every month they hold sushi and sake tasting dinners to showcase some of their 20 handpicked special sakes. I missed the date but was able to approximate the experience by ordering one of their tasting sampler flights of three sakes (two ounces each).
On my walk back to the hotel, I bypassed the rocking nightclub scene on parts of Washington Avenue, Collins and Ocean Drive. Even with the offers of free entrance as a woman, I decided I was having too good a time just checking out the many bars and people watching.
Day four I took a short drive through downtown old Miami and Little Havana to Coral Gables. This financial and business centre has great shopping and some fine dining. Chispa, a contemporary Latin restaurant, came highly recommended. The first generation Cubans have Calle Ocho and Café Versailles as a place to hang out and feel at home. But the second generation are hip, Americanized, looking for more sophisticated and urban cooking. Chispa (means spark in Spanish) with Cuban ownership and cuisine by hot American chefs Robbin Haas and Adam Votaw, takes the heritage and knocks it up many notches. There’s plantain, ceviches, suckling pig, empanadas, crispy tacos all imaginatively and perfectly prepared. My ceviche was mahi mahi marinated in ginger and soya sauce with coconut slivers. The suckling pig came as thin crust pizza with blue cheese, figs and caramelized onions. The empanada was chorizo sausage encased in a crispy hot corn flour. Every morsel was so delicious, when Votaw told me they planned to take the concept to other parts of America, I cheered.
After a quick diversion to nearby Merrick Park to catch the sales in the many luxury shops of this Mediterranean style shopping village, I headed back to SoBe to walk the boardwalk and beach. North from my hotel the walk took me from the Ocean Drive part of the beach to the wooded boardwalks behind many of the famous Collins Avenue hotels. They back onto the beach but can’t own any of it. That’s for everyone to enjoy. The hotels however looked so fabulous in their art deco splendor I decided I had to enter a few. The Sagamore was chic and oh so cool with its white on white décor and collection of fine modern art. The newest on Ocean Drive, The Victor was a knock-out marrying its 1930’s Art Deco with Parisian bold deep colors and style. Vix, their restaurant with its illuminated jellyfish tanks, shimmering gauze curtains and cozy banquettes, has already made a name for itself. Further down the road the Savoy had spacious modern rooms with kitchens and direct beach access. Across the road in SoFi (south of Fifth Street), The Wave offered Art Deco for those on a tight budget. It was like touring museums and art galleries but more fun and free. Only dinner kept me from visiting more.
Mark’s South Beach, is one of the four Florida restaurants owned by celebrity chef Mark Militello. He’s one of four guru chefs collectively known as the “Mango Gang”, who gave birth to Miami’s own style of cooking in the early nineties: a fusion of Latin American and Caribbean flavors with classic European techniques. This American contemporary cuisine really put Miami on the gastronomic map. While Militello is more often at his Las Olas restaurant in Fort Lauderdale where he lives, his trademark dishes are superbly rendered by executive chef Larry LaValley at Mark’s South Beach. From the diver scallop on purée of calabaza starter to the mojo pork on sweet plantain mash with calaboo and the finisher of home made sorbets and molten chocolate dessert; my meal was a culinary triumph. Mark’s and over 40 other top restaurants offer special meal deals (dinner specials at $29.95) during Miami Spice a two month long promotion that starts August 1st.
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When I reached Key Largo a world class diving destination, made rightfully famous in songs, I tuned into oldies but goodies on the radio and settled in for a picturesque two hour drive to Key West. The “Overseas” Highway 1 crosses 43 bridges, including one that’s seven miles long, as it completes the stretch between dozens of small islands to end more than 100 miles into the open seas. One on side of the road is the Atlantic Ocean and on the other the Gulf of Mexico. Its end is the southernmost tip of United States, a mere 90 miles from Cuba by boat.
Commercial fishing is the second largest industry in the Keys. Residents born in the island chain are known as conchs, after the mollusk that used to be abundantly fished in the Keys. The moniker Conch Republic is the affection term for the area. Stone crabs are still harvested and so are pink shrimp as well as many types of scale fish. As a seafood lover, I knew I was in for some treats. Meanwhile I passed by a number of Key Lime pie outlets – another area specialty though key limes are no longer grown commercially in the Keys. But enough about food when there’s such beauty and history all around.
The Keys were first sited by adventurer Ponce de Leon in 1513. Later pirates found refuge here and settlers farmed in the early 1800’s. Wreckers made fortunes salvaging goods from ships that went down on the reefs and in the mid-19th century sponge harvesting was a lucrative industry. Now more than three million tourists arrive each year, an equally good money maker. More interesting though, the varied history and laid back subtropical atmosphere gives rise to very colorful residents. Life is different here. As one Miami resident told me, “Once you’re past Marathon, things get weird.” (The area is divided into five regions namely Key Largo, Islamorada, Marathon, Big Pine Key and Key West.)
I’d been to Key West before many years ago with my mother and we’d been refused entrance in a restaurant called La te da because they were having a tea dance for men only. Would it be still there? I was looking forward to the adventure. Once I arrived at this tiny two-by-four mile island, I headed for the end of Duval Street where my Southernmost House for the night was located. There was a confusion of signs proclaiming “southernmost” for an inn, hotel, motel, and beach front property some of which looked depressingly modern for an old town. Finally I sighted the House and it was all it billed itself to be – the Southernmost House Grand Hotel and Museum. Built in 1896 it had grandeur, a museum of artifacts in its halls showcasing original letters and signatures from every US president, a location on the water at the southernmost tip of the island and much more. My room was large with a tasteful modern marble bathroom, antique furniture and a private balcony with an awesome view of the ocean and hotel pool. Then there was the bonus of the Key West quirkiness such as the 24 pet bunny rabbits hopping around the back yard and pool area, the Carson City Saloon Bar circa 1839 purchased at auction, used as the pool bar now and the museum status which brought tourists wandering in off the streets on a regular basis.
Of all places, this town begged to be walked despite the Old Town Trolley Fleet, Bone Island Shuttles and Conch Tour Trains on offer to tourists. At day’s end there’s a daily sunset celebration when musicians, jugglers, mimes and various artists perform in Mallory Square. A hike to the other end of Duval Street, the town’s main drag, would get me there in easy time if I wasn’t distracted. I walked by a “rub” club for men, then saw La te da, now offering a drag show on one floor and a piano bar on the ground level. I couldn’t resist entering Senses at Play, a photography shop displaying beautiful erotic photos on the walls. Former headhunters from Philadelphia, John and Bernadette McCall opened the gallery about a year ago and specialize in shooting couples in nude sensual positions. They manage to capture sensuality in every shape, figure and age. No wonder their product is proving to be extremely popular with regular folks. “A couple we just shot was from Missouri. They never thought they’d do this ever” said John.
Rub, drag and shoot – eating had to be next. Locals raved about Mangoes and so I went. In the centre of Duval Street with both indoor and outdoor seating, it was a great spot for people watching. Chef Paul Orchard started with the place when it opened 14 years ago and he has the touch. My wild mushroom appetizer and fresh caught yellow tail snapper with passion fruit beurre blanc were so good I recommended them to the Italian gay guys in matching tattoos next to me. This is also a town which spirits haunt so I had to do the night time ghost tour. It was corny but full of good yarns with a base of truth. Ask town folks about Robert the doll and about the radiologist with his undying love affair with a corpse. And speaking of ghosts – I saw plenty of Hemmingway. Seems there’s an annual Hemmingway look alike contest in honor of this famous writer’s residence in Key West (his former home is open for visits) and many people stay in character in-between contests.
Before I left Key West for my final destination in southeast Florida I skipped the boring American breakfast and found Conch and the Cuban, a delightful little outdoor joint with the best fresh grouper on toasted Cuban bread (yes they also served eggs, omelets, sandwiches and more). At Hawk’s Cay I just made it in time for the dolphin swim organized by Dolphin Connection. After a 15 minute talk about dolphins the six of us who had signed for the program had a magical half hour interaction with these intelligent mammals. We hugged, kissed, held, petted and played with our new friends. They seemed to like it as much as we did (but then they got fish snacks for every interaction).
Hawk’s Cay resort is a sprawling family style resort on a sixty acre island at Duck Key, just south of Marathon in the middle of the Keys. It’s a paradise for water sports of all sorts. My last night I felt it important to sit outdoors and watch the sun go down as I dined. Water’s Edge restaurant gave me my sunset experience. It was about 80 miles to the closest shopping mall and a two hour drive to Miami airport. The world was as far away as my cares yet close enough to be practical.
Pack Your Bags
Florida general tourist information: www.visitflorida.com
Fort Lauderdale information: www.sunny.org
Miami information: www.MiamiandBeaches.com
The Keys: www.fla-keys.com
Hertz car rental: www.hertz.com
(All of my hotels had rooms under $200 during non-peak seasons)
The Pillars: www.pillarshotel.com
The Bentley: www.thebentleyhotels.com
The Southernmost House: www.SouthernmostHouse.com
Hawk’s Cay: www.hawkscay.com
Restaurants: Blue Moon www.bluemoonfishco.com Johnny V’s www.johnnyvlasolas.com Doraku www.dorakusushi.com Chispa www.chisparestaurant.com Mark’s South Beach www.chefmark.com Shorty’s www.shortysbbq.com Mangos www.mangoeskeywest.com
100 best things to do in Florida (Courtesy of Your RV Lifestyle) 100 best things to do in Florida