72-Hour Getaway Toronto
By Margaret Swaine
Toronto the Good is shedding its goodie two-shoes persona. Yes the streets are still safe to walk at all hours and are generally clean enough to sleep on. The five million inhabitants are unfailingly polite, saying “I’m sorry” when they’ve done nothing more than crossed your path. Yet of late Canada’s largest city has taken on a style and an edge. There are spots and times where it has donned its killer heels.
Tarted up industrial wastelands and cool new cultural venues such as The Four Seasons opera house and Daniel Liebeskind’s Crystal addition to the Royal Ontario Museum have added a vibrancy to the city. Major changes are taking place at the Art Gallery of Ontario with its redesign by Frank Gehry. The Gardiner Museum of Ceramic Art has a complete new look as has the National Ballet School of Canada and the Royal Conservatory of Music. Three new five star hotels are due to open in the downtown hotel scene by 2009 – Trump International, Ritz-Carlton and a second Four Seasons Yorkville. Opening in summer of 2007 is The Hazelton Hotel, an ultra deluxe Yabu Pushelberg designed hotel that includes the restaurant One by renowned local chef Mark McEwan.
This fifth largest city on the continent is also one of the planets most multicultural. With 79 ethnic publications, 34 faith groups and over 100 languages and dialects spoken, the diversity is inspiring and extensive. Neighborhoods such as Corso Italia, Greektown, Little Poland, Via Azores and Gerrard India Bazaar reflect the origin of the locals with their bilingual signs, ethnic restaurants and imported foods from the home countries.
Where you stay depends on your tastes. Like to be in the heart of the action in a hip boutique hotel? Hotel Le Germain and Soho Metropolitan Hotel both in the Entertainment District offer stylish luxury right at the throbbing center of club land. The Westin Harbour Castle on Lake Ontario is five minutes from the action, peacefully situated on Toronto’s waterfront. Hilton Toronto has the advantage of being right across from the new opera house and just steps from the Financial and Entertainment Districts. The tony Four Seasons Hotel and The Park Hyatt are centered in fashionable Yorkville near the Mink Mile of shopping. Historic elegance and comfort can be found in The Financial District’s Royal York Hotel and King Edward Hotel. If you are part of the artsy crowd you’ll love the urbane Gladstone with its 37 unique artist designed rooms in the funky Queen West area – though be prepared for noise from trams, trains and the bar.
Day 1
You’re a savvy traveler with just a few days to see the many sides of Toronto? Let’s start then with the edgy and artsy. If you’re staying at the Gladstone you’re already ready to go. If not grab a cab – Toronto’s are relatively cheap though often scruffy – to Queen West Art & Design District. When phone company utility boxes were defiled by ugly graffiti in this arty neighborhood, the appropriated solution was better graffiti. With the city’s blessing young artists from the collective Style in Progress (SIP) transformed more than 20 of the brown box eyesores into artistically progressive statements. Start your tour at the century old Drake Hotel (the next block from the Gladstone) which has been refurbished in a nouveau Bohemian style. Quirky, with cheekily mismatched furniture, its shabby-chic is the pulse of the New Cool Toronto. Have breakfast at their Corner Café then head east along this gritty part of Queen Street enjoying the city’s greatest concentration of contemporary art galleries, totally mod boutiques and chic furniture shops. See photos of cultural detritus captured at Stephen Bulger Gallery, contemporary commercial art at Engine Gallery or the spiritual and social commentary depicted by the artists at Loop. In Abstacto owned by sculptor Kate Eisen showcases mid-century modern furniture, vintage woods and Lucite accessories. Fluf offers handmade cushions in hundreds of styles. Quasi Modo Modern Furniture is three levels of furniture by international heavy hitters such as Vitra, Herman Miller and Santa & Cole.
If you are a good walker keep trekking until you hit Spadina Road then head north through Chinatown stopping for a quick lunch at one of the many Asian restaurants. Happy Seven and Swatow at Dundas and Lee Garden at Baldwin are popular with locals. However if you really love dim sum and want to experience what’s likely the best in North America, take a two minute taxi to the Metropolitan Hotel on Chestnut Street in “old chinatown”. There on the second floor you’ll find the elegant and exquisite Lai Wah Heen. If you have stayed around Spadina, meander a block west into Kensington Market to view storefronts of all ethnic persuasions, vintage clothing shops such as Courage My Love and hear the calls of a lively marketplace. Either way you are nearby The Art Gallery of Ontario on Dundas Street. It’s undergoing a major $254 million redesign and expansion under the guidance of renowned architect Frank Gehry (expected to be completed in 2008). The Henry Moore Sculptural Centre has the largest collection of Moore’s sculptures in the world and there are many great works by Canadian and international artists in the Gallery’s extensive collection. However about 80 per cent of the gallery is space is closed during construction so give it a pass until the reopening.
For further culture head a little north to Yorkville. On the west side of Avenue at Bloor, The Royal Ontario Museum (ROM) is undergoing construction of modern architect Daniel Libeskind’s crystal design for six new galleries. Special tours of the Lee-Chin Crystals exterior and neighboring sites take place at 1:00 pm on Saturdays and 6:00 pm on Fridays during the months of June, July and August 2007. You can also enjoy tours of the Lee-Chin Crystal’s interior with the ROM’s Museum Guides. Throughout construction the Museum is continuing its tradition of rotating special exhibitions so check to see what’s on in the various galleries. (Six million artifacts from around the world and regular special exhibits along popular themes.)
Toronto’s a great shopping city and this area’s home to high end retail with bargain hunters’ seasonal sales. Begin here at the posh Hazelton Lanes where you can explore two levels of shopping filled with top brands such as Manolo Blahnik, Valentino and Ferragamo. Marc Laurent’s a personal shopping favourite stocked with exquisite Kiton, Etro and all the best brands. Intrepid shoppers keep going to Holt Renfrew, the department store for Toronto’s upper crust with three floors of luxury labels. At Holt’s Café you can get an open face sandwich and a jolt of revitalizing java. For a more relaxed lunch if you haven’t opted for Chinese stop in at the Studio Café in the Four Seasons. Food is always excellence as is celebrity and fashionista spotting.
Yorkville’s full of good restaurants, cafés and bars with outdoor patios so at dinner time in warm weather you might just want to grab a seat outdoors and people watch. For indoor dining Pangaea offers refined fresh market cuisine, Joso’s is famous for its fresh grilled whole fish and Sotto Sotto is a celeb hang-out. However is you really want to rest your feet and pamper yourself take a five minute taxi ride to Splendido one of the city’s best restaurants. Service here is ultra smooth, the food which features many seasonal Canadian specialties is refined and the wine list is long and deep. Be prepared to shell out but it’s worth it.
Day 2
Start your morning where the city all began in 1793 at Front Street, which used to skirt the shoreline of Lake Ontario. While the waterfront has moved many blocks further south thanks to land infill, St. Lawrence Market, now over 200 years old stands on its original spot. Tours run year round Wednesdays to Saturdays from 10:00 a.m. until noon. Even a tour-a-phobic will love the experience which is full of juicy details otherwise easily missed in the buzz of a busy farmers’ market. Playwright, comedian and history whiz Bruce Bell (or a colleague) will point out an old City Hall circa 1834 now engulfed within the South Market building and later the jail and police station walls below it. As you walk past the vendors there’ll be plenty of samples including back bacon on a bun, desserts from Eve’s Temptations and Indian candy from Caviar Direct. The tour continues through Market Lane Park to other historical buildings including St. Lawrence Hall where Canada’s fathers of confederation first met, locations on the black Freedom Trail and the city’s 1834 First Post Office still open for mail. If you prefer to do it yourself grab Canadian back bacon on a bun from Carousel Bakery or an artic char baguette and stroll around.
Around noon head to Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar on Church Street just south of Front. One of Toronto’s top chefs, the handsome Jamie serves up seasonal tapas style dishes based on local ingredients. If you sit at the long counter overlooking the open kitchen you can chat with your neighbors as you watch the snack size roast monk fish, crisp skinned pork belly or whatever’s on the daily changing menu being prepared. Have a wine to match by the glass and soak in the ultra-hip hopping scene. If you’re a seafood lover the best fresh oysters and fish can be found a few blocks away at Starfish.
After lunch head to the Distillery District. If you like modern design you might want to walk the first stretch long King Street East from Jarvis to Parliament Street which is the city’s prime area for modern design showrooms. You’ll pass furniture shops by innovative Canadian and international designers such as Abitare, Ziggurat and Klaus (Nienkämper). A little further east and several blocks south is the Distillery Historic District at Parliament and Mill Streets. Sitting on 13 acres, it’s one of the largest and best preserved collection of Victorian Industrial architecture in North America. The 44 historic buildings are linked by brick-paved streets running off a central courtyard. Over 800 films were shot at this atmospheric 1832 locale. Take an hour or more to visit the galleries, art studios, retail shops and micro-brewery. Don’t miss the Sandra Ainsley Gallery home to gorgeous glass sculpture displayed in dramatic lighting against the distressed brick walls. For the hungry there are outdoor patios in the summer, various bars and restaurants including gourmet tasting menus at Perigee in the evening. I suggest you re-energize with a freshly roasted coffee or an exotic Chai tea at Balzac’s Coffee House. Or if you like spas, the newly opened Oasis Wellness Centre and Spa with 78 treatment areas in its 23,000 square feet is the city’s largest.
At cocktail hour head back downtown to the 54th floor of the TD Bank Tower to Canoe restaurant and bar. This is your CN Tower substitute. Take in a bird’s eye view of the city with an excellent martini in hand. And mingle with the high powered suits of Bay Street instead of tourists. If it’s a weekday you can stay for dinner here – food and view are good with a strong focus on Canadian ingredients and dishes. Or you can check out the scene at Ki, a happening Asian style bar and restaurant or ByMark another local watering hole and dining favorite among the financial crowd.
If you are travelling with kids or are a kid at heart, then you really have to do the CN Tower. Canada’s National Tower which celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2006, defines the Toronto skyline and at 553.33m (1,815 ft., 5 in.) is the world’s tallest building. Views are literally breathtaking from three observation levels including the Glass Floor Look Out and Sky Pod. If you dine here you by pass the long line-ups to a separate elevator where you can enjoy wine from Guinness World Record’s “World’s Highest Wine Cellar” and tasty Canadian seafood platters.
Day 3
Now you’ve seen the heart of the city, explore the ethnic areas or a few special attractions further afield. You’ll want to pick and choose from the following options.
Italians have played an important role in Canadian history ever since Giovanni Caboto (John Cabot) explored and claimed Newfoundland for England in 1497. Between 1885 and 1924, then after World War II, waves of Italians arrived, settling around College St. – our first “Little Italy.” This area today is packed with trattorias, funky shops, hip restaurants, a lively bar scene and several poolhalls. Sidewalks are jammed on weekends – especially in the summer, with locals and visitors alike sipping espressos on outdoor patios as at Café Diplomatico (often used as a set by filmmakers). Boom Breakfast & Co is perfect for a breakfast of omelettes, stacks of pancakes or crêpes.
Greektown on the Danforth also intermingles creative spaces, clubs and cafés with stereotypical ethnic cuisine and shops. Walking down Danforth Avenue you see street signs in English and Greek, blue and white Greek flags line the avenue, fruit and vegetable stands, butcher shops, Greek bakeries and pastry shops. The scent of traditional Greek food fills the air especially in the warmer months, when the glass walls of the restaurants are opened up, the shouts of “Opa!” reverberate. Join in the fun and lunch at one of the many Greek spots such as Avli, Mezes or Maria’s Garden where Maria Kontopidis serves up traditional homemade dishes.
A short scenic ferry ride commencing near the Westin Harbour Castle takes you to Toronto Islands, originally settled in the 1830s and now home to Centreville amusement park, Hanlan’s Point (nude) Beach and lots of paths where you can take in Toronto from a different perspective. Ontario Place is also on the lake and features amusement parks, water sports and the triodetic-dome that houses the cinesphere, the world’s first permanent IMAX theatre. Harbourfront itself, once a desolate chuck of industrial land has been transformed into a hive of cultural activity where over 4,000 theatrical and musical events are held every year.
If you’re travelling with kids they’ll love the Ontario Science Centre or Black Creek Pioneer Village. The Science Centre pioneered the concept of interactive exhibitions and continues to provoke and stimulate with its exhibitions, IMAX theatre films and new spaces such as KidSpark for those eight and under. At Black Creek step into Canada’s past and explore an authentically re-created 1860’s Ontario country village. Enjoy more than 40 restored homes, tradeshops, public and farm buildings, interpreters and artisans in period dress, country dining, unique shopping and village made crafts.
More into studs and leather? The Gay Village centered around the intersection of Church and Wellesley is packed with gay-oriented shops like This Ain’t the Rosedale Library, cafés and bars such as Woody’s and Sailors. Showtime’s series Queer as Folk is filmed in the Village and it’s host to Canada’s largest annual gay and lesbian Pride celebrations (third largest pride parade in the world). Rub the shiny spot on the controversial bronze monument to Alexander Wood, believed to be North America’s only traditional bronze gay historical monument.
Save some energy for the evening. Toronto’s the third largest theatre centre in the English-speaking world after New York and London. Every night dozens of acts from big time musicals to small experimental plays are on stage. Mirvish productions puts on the city’s biggest long running shows – the several theatres they use are all in the downtown core.
The new Four Seasons Centre for the Performing Arts by Diamond and Schmitt Architects is Canada’s first purpose-built opera house. Elementally Canadian and austere from the outside, inside the airy foyer is dominated by the blond beech and maple woods. Huge all glass walls from the lobbies and reception rooms look onto the city. The horseshow auditorium provides acoustics that are alive at intimate moments while allowing huge waves of sound to soar to magnificent heights. If an opera’s on don’t miss attending.
If you want to dine in the action packed Entertainment District, The Fifth is a unique, popular spot. Off a back alley, through the throngs of a throbbing nightclub, up a freight elevator and you’re in a peaceful oasis where steaks have a French twist and even the veggies are haute. On King Street West are Susur, the adjacent more casual Lee (Susur’s baby) and Thuet all equally tasty nearby alternatives.
If your taste is a tad kinky, you’ll enjoy Wicked, a hedonistic club for swingers and like minded people. As can be imagined the club looks like a boudoir with bed style seating, silk ceiling drapes and lots of red accents. There are VIP booths, bed booths and an exhibition cage. Fridays are couples and girl/boy toys night and Saturdays are couples and single female nights.
For your nightcap, hit one of the sizzling jazz clubs perhaps Top O’ The Senator, Montreal Bistro or The Rex Hotel. Every night there are live performances in Toronto from jazz greats, up-and-comers and wannabes. Time for bed. You’ve sampled Toronto the Good and Bad. Sweet dreams.
Toronto: www.tourismtoronto.com 1-800-205-7638 Local 416-203-2500
Hotels/Where to Stay
Luxury
The Hazelton Hotel
18 Yorkville Ave.
416-963-6300
www.thehazeltonhotel.com
Opening in the summer of 2007 this 77 room hotel is designed to offer the ultimate in luxury with rainfall showers, deepsoaking tubs, private dressing areas in zebrawood, flat screen TVs, a spa and fitness centre and much more.
Four Seasons Hotel
21 Avenue Rd.
416-964-2301
www.fourseasons.com/toronto
Boasting some of the city’s most luxurious guest rooms, Four Seasons is in the heart of Yorkville, Toronto’s fashionable shopping, dining and entertainment quarter, yet only five minutes from the business district.
The Fairmount Royal York
100 Front St. W.
416-368-2511
www.fairmont.com
This grand landmark in heart of downtown, across from the railway station in the city’s financial district is near to theatres, the CN Tower, sports facilities and much more. It’s large – often full of conventioneers – but manages to retain a graceful stately air.
Le Royal Meridien King Edward Hotel
37 King St. E.
416-863-9700
https://www.omnihotels.com/hotels/toronto-king-edward
Le Royal Méridien King Edward has delighted guests visiting Toronto for 100 years. Nestled in the financial district in the heart of the city, the hotel continues to charm today with an update sleek modern sensibility added to its warm traditional style.
Westin Harbour Castle
1 Harbour Square
416-869-1600
www.marriott.com/westin
A 977-room twin tower on the waterfront rising 38 stories above scenic Lake Ontario, it’s conveniently located near major attractions, including the Air Canada Centre and the CN Tower.
Hilton Toronto
145 Richmond St. W.
416-869-3456
www.hilton.com
Right downtown across from the opera house, this Hilton has bright airy rooms with large windows, marble bathrooms, a Ruth’s Chris steakhouse and fine dining in Tundra.
The Park Hyatt
4 Avenue Rd.
416-925-12347
www.parktoronto.hyatt.com
In the fashionable Yorkville area – encircled by high-end retail stores and five-star restaurants – this luxury hotel has subtle contemporary influences and a premier spa and salon, Stillwater.
Boutique Hotels
SoHo Metropolitan
318 Wellington St. W.
416-599-8800
www.sohohotel.ca
In the vibrant Entertainment District, SoHo Met has 89 oversized guestrooms and suites with down duvets, triple Italian bed linens and a cool urban feel.
Hotel Le Germain
30 Mercer St.
416-345-9500
www.germainhotels.com
Contemporary and comfortable Le Germain has down duvets, flat screen TV’s and sleek bathrooms in its 118 rooms. A communal library with open hearth fireplace and complimentary cappuccino bar adds to the friendly atmosphere.
The Drake Hotel
1150 Queen Street West
416-531-5042
www.thedrakehotel.ca
Located in a gritty but hip part of town, Drake has 19 hotel rooms to play in, offering guests a comfortable mix of intimacy, bohemian stylishness and high tech toys.
The Gladstone Hotel
1214 Queen St. W.
416-531-4635
www.gladstonehotel.com
In the same gritty neighborhood as The Drake, Gladstone is a unique urban hotel with 37 artist designed guest rooms with all the modern amenities. Trains, trams, street and bar noise are part of the fun unless you get an inside back room.
Where to Eat
Breakfast
Corner Café, Drake Hotel
1150 Queen St. W.
416-531-5042
www.thedrakehotel.ca
St. Lawrence Market
91-95 Front St. E.
416-392-7219
www.stlawrencemarket.com
Boom Breakfast & Co.
808 College St.
416-534-3447
Lunch
Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar
9 Church St., 416-362-1957 ext. 354
www.jkkitchens.com
Starfish
100 Adelaide St. E.
416-366-7827
www.starfishoysterbed.com
Four Seasons Studio Café
21 Avenue Rd.
416-964-2301
www.fourseasons.com/toronto
Lai Wah Heen
108 Chestnut St.
416-977-9899
www.metropolitan.com/lwh
Dinner
Easy and The Fifth
225 Richmond Street W.
416-979-3000
https://fifthrestaurant.thefifth.com
Susur
601 King St. W.
416-603-2205
www.susur.com
Thuet
609 King St. W
416-603-2777
http://www.petitethuet.com
Splendido
88 Harbour St.
416-929-7788
www.splendido.ca
Canoe
66 Wellington St. W.
416-364-0054
www.canoerestaurant.com
360 The Restaurant at the CN Tower
301 Front St. W.
416-601-4870
www.cntower.ca
What to do/Attractions
Museums/Galleries
Art Gallery of Ontario
317 Dundas St. West
416-979-6649
https://ago.ca
Gardiner Museum of Ceramic Art
111 Queen’s Park
416-586-8080
www.gardinermuseum.ca
Royal Ontario Museum
100 Queen’s Park at Avenue Road
416-586-8000
www.rom.on.ca
Public Attractions
CN Tower
301 Front St. W.
416-868-6937
www.cntower.ca
Black Creek Pioneer Village
1000 Murray Ross Pkwy
Vaughan, ON
416-736-1733
www.blackcreek.ca
Harbourfront Centre
235 Queens Quay W.
(416) 973-4000
www.harbourfrontcentre.com
Ontario Place
955 Lake Shore Blvd. W.
(416) 314-9900 or 1-866-ONE-4-FUN (1-866-663-4386)
www.ontarioplace.com
Centre Island
Toronto Islands
(416) 203-0405
www.toronto.ca/parks/island
Toronto Island Ferry
9 Queen’s Quay W.
416-392-8193
www.toronto.ca/parks
Ontario Science Centre
770 Don Mills Rd.
(416) 696-1000
www.ontariosciencecentre.ca
Shopping Areas
The Distillery District
55 Mill Street at Parliament St.
416-364-1177
www.thedistillerydistrict.com
Hazelton Lanes shopping mall
Yorkville & Hazelton Streets
416-968-8600
http://yorkvillevillage.com/stores/#/
Holt Renfrew
50 Bloor St. W. (at Yonge)
416-960-2863
www.holtrenfrew.com
Markets
Kensington Market
160 Baldwin St.
(College and Spadina area including the streets Oxford, Nassau, Baldwin, Augusta, Kensington and St. Andrew)
www.kensington-market.ca
St. Lawrence Market
91-95 Front St. E.
416-392-7219
www.stlawrencemarket.com
Performance/Theatre Centres
Four Seasons Centre for The Performing Arts
145 Queen St. W
416-363-6671
www.fourseasonscentre.ca
West Queen West Art & Design District
Website for galleries, clubs, hotels and activities in the Queen West area.
www.westqueenwest.ca
Queen West Galleries
www.queenwestgalleries.com
Theatre
Theatres are dotted throughout the city.
www.theatreintoronto.com
Theatre and concert tickets
T.O Tix
40 Dundas St. W.
416-979-9960
www.totix.ca
Mirvish Productions
The Canon Theatre
244 Victoria St.
The Princess of Wales
300 King St. W.
Royal Alexandra
260 King St. W.
Tickets for all Mirvish theatres: TicketKing
416-872-1212 or 1-800-461-3333
Clubs
Wicked Club
An on premises hedonistic club for swingers.
1032 Queen St. W.
416-669-5582
www.wickedclub.com
Jazz
To find jazz clubs and check out who’s playing visit
www.TorontoJazzLive.com
www.jazzintoronto.com
Spas
Oasis Wellness Centre & Spa
Building 36
The Distillery
55 Mill St.
416-364-2626
1-866-998-6999
www.experienceoasis.ca