By Margaret Swaine
My brother Ralph’s not much of a wine drinker. Actually he’s not much of a drinker period. So when he opened a bottle of Bordeaux at my birthday dinner he and his wife Jane had cooked, I was impressed.
Now he’s a frugal sort, so we’re not talking expensive Chateau Lafite from the famous Pauillac area, but Chateau Puyfromage from Côtes de Francs on general list (#33605) for $13.95. It went just ducky with the duck they cooked.
Puyfromage happens to be one of the most popular Bordeaux wines in Ontario, selling over 6,000 cases last year. Others besides me therefore obviously agree with his taste. And French wines are by far the most popular imported wines in Canada capturing about a quarter of all wine sales, with Bordeaux a leading region. Impressive figures, considering Bordeaux’s reputation for being so costly as to be unobtainable.
My husband’s first word when I asked him for his opinion on Bordeaux wine was, expensive. That’s also what he says when I mention vacation or shopping so it puts this wine in the category of special occasions only. This is a misnomer. Just like you can get super savers buying travel and cloths, so you can with Bordeaux. While this region boasts some of the world’s classiest and most pricy wines, it also has an enormous array of well made bargains from among its 13,500 producers, including the over 7,000 chateau selling wines. The trick is to sift the good from the bad.
Bordeaux, as you can clearly deduce, is an enormous producer of wine, not only in the number of properties but also in the shear quantity. This area in the southwest of France has some of the nation’s largest estates. Even a mid-size Médoc producer with about 150 acres will make about 26,000 cases a year, more than two or three times that of a North American boutique winery.
There are 57 appellations and hundreds of classified growths – those officially ranked according to quality. I’ll tell more about the classification systems later, after I’ve simplified the region enough to remove a bit of the fear factor. Yes, the fear factor. That sinking feeling you get when confronted with a restaurants wine list, see pages of Bordeaux listed and you don’t have a clue where to begin. Usually you are only looking in this section when you want something special, which makes the task all the more daunting. In this instance call for the resident expert, namely the owner or sommelier to assist. I would and do. Even the wine pros who specialize in the region, say they can never completely master Bordeaux. First there’s the huge number of properties, the fortunes of which shift around like the sand dunes of the nearby Arcachon basin. Then there are the usual suspects namely vintage variations and changes in winemaking techniques that alter how a wine tastes from year to year.
At the LCBO too you can always ask for a consultant to help you. However for a little independence and to know something of which you talk and want, it’s good to have the Bordeaux basics down pat. These are as easy to learn as one, two, three – that is grape varieties, main regions and classifications.
Grapes
Cabernet Sauvignon and merlot are the dominant red grapes, often blended with cabernet franc. Petit verdot has a role of minor importance in some blends. The resultant red wines tend to be more structured and restrained than the New World interlopers. Flavours lean towards herbs, spices and wood and they demand a more educated palate than the ripe, sweet fruit tastes from the young nations.
Sauvignon blanc and sémillon are the two dominant white grapes, sometimes blended with muscadelle to add more aromatics. Both dry and sweet dessert wines are produced. The dry whites are aromatic, fresh and crisp. The sweet whites, among the world’s best, are rich, full flavoured and concentrated with honeyed fruit tastes.
Regions/wine groups
The 57 Bordeaux appellations can be divided into six “families” of wine: four red and two white. Each group shares similar characteristics because of the regulated blends used in production and their similar growing conditions. The Gironde estuary cuts through the middle of the region, splitting north of the city of Bordeaux into the rivers Garonne which heads southeast and Dordogne going somewhat northeast. Thus the land is neatly divided into left and right bank with the area in the middle called Entre-Deux-Mers (between the seas).
Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur are the most generic among the reds, coming from anywhere in the region, and hence offer the best price. Meant to be drunk young, they are light to medium bodied, fairly crisp, and often lean with herby fresh berry notes. Côtes de Bordeaux from the various côtes appellations dotted around, tend to be finer in quality and are light to medium bodied, fresh and quick maturing with typical Bordeaux bouquets. Some of the Côtes are Côtes de Bourg, Côtes de Castillon and Côtes de Francs.
The third grouping, the Libournais vineyards, situated on the eastern bank of the Dordogne River (hence often called right bank wines) includes the prestigious Saint-Emilion and Pomerol wine districts. The picturesque, cobble stoned town of Saint Emilion, perched on an escarpment above the Dordogne, is a tourist’s jewel crowning the region. The soil is particularly suited for merlot and hence the wines tend to be softer and fruitier than wines from the left bank. They are medium to full bodied and the best can be aged many years to bring out their full complexities. Satellite appellations include Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac.
The Médoc and Graves “family” of wines are renowned for the stately 19th century châteaux where some of the most legendary and age-worthy wines of the world are produced. On this rather flat, plain land along the left bank of the Gironde and Garonne, vineyards are laid out in prim, perfectly aligned, densely planted rows. Graves is just south of the captivating city of Bordeaux itself, while Médoc is to the north . Cabernet Sauvignon dominates in these districts and the wines, often big, complex and full flavoured, can demand long aging to bring out their potential. Appellations within these areas include Haut-Médoc, Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint-Julien, Margaux and Pessac-Léognan.
The dry whites basically fall into two styles, either crisp and fresh or fuller bodied and aged in oak. The appellations seen most often here include Bordeaux, Graves, Entre-Deux-Mers and Pessac-Léognan. The sweet whites are produced with a majority of sémillon grape, a variety susceptible to noble rot (a beneficial fungus that concentrates flavours). The most famous region for sweets is Sauternes that makes luscious wines from classified châteaux. Barsac, Sainte-Croix-du-Mont, Cadillac and Cèrons are others.
Ranking the wine
The king of all the globe’s wine ranking systems comes from Bordeaux, and dates back to 1855. At the time, Bordeaux was enjoying its considerable riches as a major port for world trade. Large land holdings were crowned with chateaux (castles), many built in the previous century by the aristocracy of the day. The rich merchant class used their wealth to purchased chateaux and the vineyards surrounding. Some such as Barton and Guestier are still to this day important chateaux owners as well as negotiants. For the 1855 Paris Exhibition, Napoleon III, the Emperor of France at the time, invited Bordeaux’s wine brokers to rank the region’s top wines. After much debate, a five-tier classification was chosen ranging from Premiers Cru (First Growth) to Cinquièmes Cru (Fifth Growth). The final list consisted of 61 red wines from leading chateaux, all from Médoc with the exception of Haut-Brion which was the most prominent Graves chateau. In addition 25 highly rated sweet wines of Sauternes, Barsac and such, were ranked in three tiers (Grand First, First and Second Growths).
While no one likely intended this classification to last so long, little of it has changed to this day. Much of the mystique surrounding Bordeaux wines even now can be traced to top growths or crus classes with their elegant castles, aristocratic tone and of course high prices. The First Growths (Lafite, Latour, Margaux, Haut Brion and Mouton-Rothschild – which received the only official change when upgraded from Second to First Growth in 1973) are so long lived as to be almost immortal. However many of the classed growths have expanded their vineyards holdings since their classification, some have been ravaged by inheritance taxes, others have invested profits into better equipment and technology. Numerous now copy the Americans somewhat, aiming for riper grapes with softer, less green tannins. A lot have reduced aging in oak from three to four years down to 18 to 24 months to make the wine ready to drink earlier. For you, the consumer, this means the Médoc classification system of today can not guarantee that a wine ranked Second Growth for example, will be better than one ranked Fifth. And since price goes up with ranking, some of the best quality buys are found on the lower tiers. Bottom line – don’t fret about learning the individual classifications – you do better to follow the ranking of current wine critics on the wine.
The other systems are no less confusing. Graves was classified first in 1953 and revised in 1959 with no attempt to rank among the chosen wines. The Saint-Emilion classification, which divides into two categories, has been revised several times since first being published in 1955. The crus bourgeois, châteaux of Médoc that were not originally classified, have greatly grown in numbers over the years. This year these over 470 chateaux are being divided into a new pecking order. Some high quality properties with excellent track records are among this group.
Just know there are multi-classifications, wines will generally cost more the higher they are ranked, but quality does not necessarily correspond. However among all, even the lesser, the style is uniquely Bordeaux: with elegance, a defined structure and an herby edge rather than sweet fruit. The aesthete palate steers towards this style, the more educated it becomes. World-renowned British wine writer and critic Hugh Johnson wrote in his Pocket Wine Book 2002 about generic bordeaux “If I had to choose one simple daily wine, this would be it.”
Assuming you’re equally enthused, what do you match with it? The reds like the one my brother served, do go well with duck and equally with goose or even turkey if you have it with a savory stuffing. The chateaux I’ve visited in Médoc, often have served me lamb with their fine reds – a perfect marriage. Steak, stew and sausages are also good with the deeper, fuller Bordeaux reds. With the dry whites, shellfish, grilled fish, oysters, chicken and green vegetables, such as asparagus do well. Cheese, dessert or the classic combo foie gras, go with the sweet whites.
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This holiday season give yourself a treat, buy the best Bordeaux you can afford and start your palate on its upward journey.
Best Bets on General List
White Wines
The most popular Bordeaux whites in Ontario are Calvet Reserve (#144568, $10.95) a dry yet rounded blend of sauvignon blanc and sémillon with citrus character and the perennially popular Mouton Cadet (#2527, $12.35) which has sauvignon, sémillon and muscadelle blended in a crisp, clean style. My own top current choices are:
Chateau Bonnet Entre-Deux-Mers 2001 (83709, $12.95) produced by the fine winemaker André Lurton at his 18th century chateau, which his family acquired at the end of the 19th century. From the vast vineyards surrounding the chateau he creates a blend of 45% sauvignon blanc, 45% sémillon and rest muscadelle that has a fresh passionfruit/grapefruit bouquet and an expressive, refreshing citrus taste with a good finish.
Cordier Collection Privée Sauvignon Blanc 2001 (560235, $9.65) named after founder Desirée Cordier(1858-1940). It’s medium bodied with a crisp, fresh fruity character and tangy finish.
Red Wines
There’s a good selection of Bordeaux reds on general list, over two dozen at the moment. Among the best are:
Chateau de Cartillon 1998 (359653, $20.05), a Cru Bourgeois from Haut-Médoc it’s a blend of equal amounts of merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon with 10% petit verdot. It’s robust and generous with spiced, herby, fruity flavours and nice earthy depth. A match for meat, game or hearty meat pies and stews.
Chateau Puyfromage 2000 (33605, $13.35), a Côtes de Francs from a 1574 chateau built on a high plateau called Puy. During the 100 Years War, English troupes stationed in the plain below waited for smoke signals “from edge” of the plateau. Given a French pronunciation the words became “fromage” hence the chateau’s name. The flavours are typically goût Français of herbaceous spiced berry, medium body with no rough edges.
Chateau Canada 1999 (559468, $13.95) from the village of Cubzac-les-Ponts north of Bordeaux city, it’s a blend of 70% merlot with rest cabernet sauvignon. Aged over six months in oak, it has a herby nose and mint-berry taste with a lively structure and good concentration.
Chateau des Laurets 1999 Saint-Emilion Puisseguin (371401, $15.40), a mainly merlot blend with 14% cabernet franc and 11% cabernet sauvignon. The bouquet is a beguiling cassis berry with hints of herbs and the taste is elegant, fresh berry crispness with a dry finish.
Chateau Bonnet 1999 (99044, $15.95), majority cabernet sauvignon with 40% merlot, has a fairly full body and deep, ripe berry, herby character with spiced oak. It’s Bordeaux type-caste while expressive and supple.
Chateau de Terrefort-Quancard 1998 (145110, $15.) has its 16th century property in Cubzac-les-Ponts. Its blend of 70% merlot with cabernets sauvignon and franc is aged in oak. It has an oaky spiced berry nose and tight forest leaf flavours which need air or age to open up, but are worth the wait.
Calvet Saint-Germain 1999 (152587, $13.95) is an Entre-Deux-Mers estate that makes a pleasant, earthy berry red with a dry finish.
Chateau Guibon 1999 (559476, $12.95) a beautiful property, once owned by the Monks at Abbey La Sauve, is now part of André Lurton’s holdings. Half and half merlot and cabernet sauvignon, it’s medium light with a supple, fresh spiced fruit taste.
Chateau de la Tour 1999 (264986, $12.95) near the village of Salleboeuf is named after the ruins of a medieval castle found amongst the vines. It’s cabernet sauvignon with 42% merlot, blended to a fairly bold tangy fruit style with supple tannins, medium body and dry spiced berry finish.
Chateau de Courteillac 2000 (360552, $9.45) from a 16th century chateau in the Entre-Deux-Mers region is mainly merlot. Its minerally, leafy, ripe fruit nose carries through in the rounded berry taste, that’s very French style.
Jacques et François Lurton Merlot 1999 (456665, $9.95), the best of the solely merlot “fighting varietals”, is from the sons of André who have struck out very successfully on their own. Its smooth and easy style has a fairly ripe clean berry character.
What to Watch for in Vintages
The top classified growths and the older, great vintages, are regularly found in the Classics Catalogue. Here you’ll find the likes of Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 1995, an exulted wine with a price to match (#709022, $654) but also the occasional little chateau in the $30 to $40 range. In vintages you’ll find even more of the later. It’s often among these Cru Bourgeois and petits chateaux where the best bargains are found. Chateaux like Phélan-Ségur, Sociando-Mallet, D’Angludet and Clarke-Rothschild tend to be consistently good for example. Other good deals can be found among the lesser known properties of Saint Emilion, the Pomerol satellites and Graves. This fall in vintages, for example, are two wines from the Graves estate of Chateau Roquetaillade La Grange. From the excellent 2000 vintage, are a white (240374, $13.95) and a red (193102, $18.55) both well priced with lovely typical character.
The wine’s vintage is important in Bordeaux, more than with New World wines where weather conditions tend to be more consistent. Among the recent years, the best are 1989, 1990, 1995, 1996, 1998 and 2000. Finally, here are some tips about the four vintages most likely to be found for sale in Ontario today. The 1997 vintage was good but lighter and tended to be overpriced. Stocks languished and now bargains can be found as they get deeply discounted to push sales. In 1998, wines were very good, especially in Pomerol and Saint Emilion. These are a good bet to buy. The 1999 vintage saw lots of rain at harvest and to compensate, good growers had to limit yields, pick at just the right time and use new concentration methods to get rid of excess water. Pick your way thought these by checking reviews. Then the exceptional 2000 harvest came, which has been called a magic year, the best in decades and one of the top of the century. Buy it as it comes on the market.